Ellu Sadam

The rice that stays separate

In Tamil Nadu, ellu sadam is temple food, field food, and travel food all at once. It is packed into banana leaf parcels for the long walk to Palani, carried in steel tiffin boxes to the paddy fields, and offered as prasadam in village temples. The rice does not clump. It does not spoil. Each grain stays distinct, coated in a thin film of sesame oil and roasted sesame powder.

The key is cold-pressed sesame oil — til oil, as it is called in Tamil kitchens. It is darker, nuttier, and more aromatic than the toasted sesame oil of East Asian cooking. It does not overpower; it anchors. The oil clings to the rice without making it greasy, and the roasted sesame seeds add a texture that makes every mouthful interesting.

The sesame powder

1. Dry-roast the white sesame seeds in a small pan over low heat, stirring constantly. They are ready when they begin to pop and release a warm, nutty aroma — about three minutes. Over-roasting makes them bitter.
2. Roast two dried red chillies, torn into pieces, in the same pan for thirty seconds, until crisp.
3. Let both cool completely. Grind to a coarse powder in a small blender or mortar. The powder should not be a paste — stop while it is still dry and crumbly.

The tempering

1. Heat the Bharat sesame oil in a large kadhai or pan over medium heat.
2. Add the peanuts. Fry until golden — about two minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.
3. In the same oil, add the urad dal and chana dal. Stir until the urad dal turns a pale gold.
4. Add the remaining dried red chillies, broken into pieces, and the curry leaves. Stand back — the curry leaves will splutter.
5. Add the hing and turmeric. Stir for ten seconds.

The assembly

1. Turn the heat to low. Add the cooled rice. Gently fold the tempering into the rice with a spatula. Do not stir vigorously — the rice grains should not break.
2. Add the roasted sesame powder and salt. Fold again.
3. Add the fried peanuts. Fold once more.
4. Turn off the heat. Cover the pan and let the rice rest for five minutes — the steam will marry the flavours without making the rice soggy.
5. Garnish with freshly grated coconut before serving.

Notes from the kitchen

• The rice must be fully cooled before it meets the tempering. Hot rice will turn the sesame oil cloying and the grains will break. Cook the rice at least an hour ahead, spread it on a plate, and let it cool uncovered.
• Use an aged, separated rice like ponni or sona masoori. Short-grained or sticky rice varieties turn ellu sadam into a dense mass.
• Ellu sadam is sometimes called ellu podi sadam in households where the sesame powder is prepared in bulk and stored for quick weekday meals.
• Serve with papadum and a spoonful of plain yogurt. The cool yogurt balances the heat from the red chillies and the richness of the sesame oil.