Bengali Shorshe Chicken

Why mustard oil matters here

Shorshe chicken is not a mild curry with mustard added late. The mustard is the body of the dish, and the oil is what lets it bloom. Heat Bharat mustard oil to its first smoke, then lower the flame before the kalonji goes in. That short moment removes the raw edge of the oil and leaves the bite that Bengal expects from shorshe.

The paste should be ground fresh. Bottled kasundi has its place on the table, but this recipe needs the sharper, cleaner taste of soaked mustard seed, green chilli, and ginger. Keep the flame gentle once the curd goes in; hard boiling can split the sauce and make the mustard taste harsh.

Method

1. Soak both mustard seeds in warm water for 15 minutes. Drain and grind with three green chillies, ginger, turmeric, and a little water until smooth.
2. Toss the chicken with salt and two tablespoons of the paste. Rest for 20 minutes.
3. Heat Bharat mustard oil in a heavy kadhai until it just smokes. Lower the heat.
4. Add kalonji and let it crackle for a few seconds.
5. Add the chicken and sear until the edges take colour.
6. Whisk the remaining mustard paste into the curd. Add it to the kadhai on low heat.
7. Add hot water, cover, and simmer for 25 minutes, stirring once or twice.
8. Split the remaining green chillies and add them in the last five minutes.
9. Rest the curry off the heat before serving with steamed rice.

Notes from the kitchen

• If the mustard paste tastes bitter, it was over-ground or left too long. Grind it just before cooking.
• The curry should be spoonable, not watery. Simmer uncovered for the last few minutes if it needs tightening.
• A small spoon of raw Bharat mustard oil stirred in at the end gives a sharper Bengali finish.